Every year in mid-August, Embrun lives to the rhythm of’Embrunman. A legendary, impressive and unmissable event... and synonymous with blocked roads, complicated traffic and a valley completely saturated from dawn.
Rather than stay at home and wait for the dust to settle, we chose another option: to leave.
Without going far. Without crossing France. Just by changing valleys.
Leave the Durance valley and head for the Champsaur, It's already a change of scenery. The scenery changes in just a few kilometres.
The aim of this three-day weekend in the Champsaur was simple: avoid the crowds, enjoy the mountains in the middle of August and try out once again the freedom offered by a roof-tent. Sleep as close as possible to the start of a hike, set off at dawn, live to the rhythm of the sun... and rediscover that sometimes all you need to do is change valley to feel like you're somewhere else.
Day 1 - Set up the day before, leave early and avoid the traffic on 15 August
We touched down the evening before directly at the first hiking car park in the resort of Chaillol 1600. The idea was simple: leave early the next morning and avoid the congested roads of 15 August, especially with the’Embrunman starting at dawn.
We were far from the only ones to have had the idea of sleeping on site, but at least we woke up to find that we were already at the starting point of the hike. And that's a real luxury when you're travelling in a roof-tent.
We got up early (without an alarm clock), as we often do in a rooftop tent. The light filtered through the canvas, the sounds of the morning gently settled in, and off we went.
Hiking on the Col de la Pisse: an accessible, panoramic loop
For this first day, I had spotted a loop hike on Visorando starting from the resort: heading for the Col de la Pisse.
The criteria were simple: a gradual ascent and descent, a loop with a return to the starting point, and above all not a trek lasting several days. Even if the area allows you to link up the valleys thanks to the refuges, that wasn't our objective at all. We wanted a day hike, with a picnic at the summit and a return to base camp in the evening.
So we set off directly from the bottom of the resort, at 1600m. The climb is steady, never brutal. In the middle of August, we were expecting to see a lot more people, but in the end it was very reasonable. And one big plus: a good part of the trail is in the shade. In the middle of summer, that's no small thing.
Once you reach the pass, the landscape opens up completely. Crossing a pass inevitably means discovering the other side. And there, the view plunges over the whole Champsaur. A double panorama, a feeling of space, and that little moment of silence when you put down your rucksack to take out your picnic.
No, I'm just kidding, there was a family with 2 children playing, so we'll pass on the silence, but it looked nice to write it like that 😂
Bivouac ideas in the mountains
A quick aside for those planning a real mountain bivouac: just below the pass, about ten metres before you reach it, there's a nice flat area. It's perfect for pitching a tent.
I haven't checked the precise regulations for this sector, so I'll have to confirm them before sleeping there, but the spot is really nice. For us, the idea was to sleep in a roof tent, so we returned to the vehicle at the end of the loop.
Spotting a new spot in a roof tent
On the way back down, we spotted an unmarked car park, which looks fairly recent. Probably a future development linked to the resort. Next to it is a water retention basin (not a natural lake, more of an artificial spot used in winter).
This is where we decided to spend the night.
There was a little open hut, a bit wobbly (we'll be honest, if a big gust of wind comes up, it doesn't last long) but solid enough to allow us to lean the shower tent against it and be protected from the little gusts of wind. And that was perfect. Even though we didn't see many people on the trails, the area around the car parks was still relatively busy. Being able to shower out of sight is always appreciated (thanks to the shower tent).
Water, recharging and rest
A very practical point Chaillol 1600 A drinking water point at the bottom of the station. We were able to fill up the bottles for the following hikes without any problem.
As we'd started very early, we finished the hike in the early afternoon. And when you leave at dawn, you're also washed out earlier. So we took a break on the terrace of one of the resort's bars to recuperate a bit.
A simple evening and an early night
After a quiet afternoon on the terrace, we headed back up to our spot by the pool. A quick shower in the shelter behind the hut, preparing dinner and a calm atmosphere.
We were beginning to feel the fatigue of the trek. In a rooftop tent, you live by the rhythm of the sun. So we went to bed early, without forcing ourselves. A successful first day: panoramic walk, few people, spot spotting and a real break from the hustle and bustle of 15 August.
Day 2 - The Pic du Touron, shortness of breath and a change of spotlight
We were woken up earlier than planned by some local hikers. They obviously knew the car park a little further up well. Slamming doors, early-morning chatter... a natural wake-up call for the mountains. You don't need coffee to realise that it's going to be a sporty day.
Heading for the Pic du Touron
On this second day in the Champsaur, we're tackling the Pic du Touron. Clearly a more demanding hike than the Col de la Pisse.
The start is largely along the same path as the day before. And to be honest, it's a bit redundant. The first few kilometres are identical, which gives you a feeling of déjà vu. If you're considering these two hikes, I wouldn't recommend doing them on two consecutive days like we did. The best thing would clearly be to do them on the same day in a longer loop. We simply didn't have the courage to push on to the Pic du Touron the day before. With hindsight, maybe we should have.
90 easy %s... and 10 stinging %s
Most of the hike is very accessible. The path is clear, the progress steady and there's nothing extremely technical about it. We're making good progress, chatting and enjoying ourselves.
Then comes the final few metres.
And that's where the mood changes completely.
To reach the peak, you don't need to be afraid of heights. The slope becomes steeper and the terrain much more mineral. Hardly any grass, just stone, flagstones and unstable pebbles. In places, the ground resembles shattered slate.
Physically, it's hard. Especially for my breathing. I don't have exceptional lung capacity as it is, but I was clearly suffering. The last few metres are short on paper, but long on legs and lungs.
We ate at the top, with the well-deserved feeling of having won the panorama.
Around us, a few vultures circled quietly in the ascents. Silence, a light wind, and that feeling of being at the end of something.
Technical descent and vigilance in mountain pastures
The descent isn't any easier. On this stony, steep terrain, it's slippery. On several occasions, I found myself skidding slightly on the stones. It's not dangerous if you stay focused, but you have to be careful. Clearly not the kind of descent where you can totally relax your vigilance.
Below the peak, you can see a herd of sheep with patous. As is often the case in the mountains these days, you have to deal with guard dogs. Nothing unusual, but it's one of the parameters you have to take into account when hiking in Champsaur or elsewhere in the Hautes-Alpes. 😥
⚠️ On the Visorando route: the end of the hike takes you along a path that hasn't been maintained for years, with vegetation and falling trees sometimes blocking the way. I don't recommend following this path, and therefore staying on the route of the previous day's hike.
A break on the terrace... and a little disappointment
As on the previous day, we finish the hike relatively early. We head to the resort to relax on the terrace.
We return to the same bar. This time, we asked if we could plug in our external batteries or our phones. At that point, we still didn't have a solar panel.
Answer: no running water, no electricity.
Except that there were lights inside, functional toilets... In short. We realised that the desire to help us out wasn't there. It's a shame, especially when you're eating there. It's nothing dramatic, but it's one of those little memories you keep with you.
Snack bar, aperitif and new riverside spot
At the end of the day, we decided to change the spot completely. The next day, we plan to hike in a different area, so there's no point in sleeping in the same place again.
Before that, a stop at the local supermarket. After two days of instant noodles, we needed (and especially wanted) some variety. We went back with something to improve the ordinary: a bit of sausage, a few things for a nicer aperitif. Noodles were still on the agenda, but at least we had a real moment of conviviality beforehand.
There is a riverside spotlight. Only one real place to be.
And it's a good thing we got there early.
In the evening, several vanlifers try their luck. They slow down, observe, hope... and leave. It must be frustrating to come up empty after a long day. That evening, we realised just how much of a difference anticipation makes on a roadtrip.
A quick shower, a drink to the sound of running water, a simple dinner, and the feeling of having had a more intense day than the last.
Day 3 - Le Piolit, sunrise and a favourite hike
Once again, we woke up very early. The night by the river had lowered the temperature considerably. In the middle of August, it's a real luxury to go hiking without already being too hot. That's what the mountains are all about: a few metres less altitude, a stream nearby, and the atmosphere changes completely.
Head for the start of the hike Le Piolit.
And that, frankly, was my favourite hike of the weekend in the Champsaur.
A gradual climb as the sun rises
There are two routes to the summit of Piolit. We chose the longer route, which climbs gradually around a large mountain pasture.
We started walking with the light slowly appearing behind the mountains. Seeing the sun rise in the middle of a climb is a special moment. The landscape gradually takes on a new hue, the relief takes on more volume, and we move forward almost in silence.
Unlike the two previous hikes, the promise here is different. The days before, the panoramas were beautiful, but mainly focused on the mountain pastures and surrounding mountains. When you're used to the lake and mountain views around Embrun, you become a bit demanding. I'll admit it: I was slightly disappointed by the views on the first two hikes.
But Piolit has completely changed the game. 😍
The Col de Chorges pass and views of Lake Serre-Ponçon
Before reaching the summit, you pass through the Col de Chorges. And then the magic begins.
Le Lake Serre-Ponçon finally appears. This immense blue in the middle of the mountains is exactly the kind of landscape I love. This combination of lake and peaks is what makes the walks around the Embrun valley so unique.
We then continue towards the summit of Piolit.
And as with the Pic du Touron, the last few metres have to be earned.
A steep... and spectacular summit
The end is very steep. It's not climbing in the strict sense of the word, but quite frankly, it's climbing hard. The terrain is steep, mineral and exposed. The climb requires a bit of commitment, and so does the descent.
Once you reach the top, the view is simply incredible. A 360° view of the lake and the surrounding mountains. No disappointment there. Just that feeling of being in the right place.
At the summit, two little old-timers were chatting with a couple. When the couple left, they started chatting with us. Very nice. They also told us that there was another, much shorter way to reach Le Piolit, with a car park higher up. The summit can be reached in an hour or an hour and a half. Good to know for next time, especially if you want a quick ascent with a spectacular panorama.
We took advantage of the calm to have a picnic before the other hikers arrived.
Watch out for the looped descent
⚠️ For the return journey, we chose a loop. On Visorando, the route is not very clear at a strategic point. At one point, we followed a well-marked path on the ground... except that it descended too far down the side of the mountain.
The official route recommends staying on the ridges.
And that's really what we need to do.
Do not descend twenty metres below. If you do, you get stuck and have to climb back up using your hands to find the ridge. It's not dangerous for a fit adult, but it's surprising. We've been tricked, and given the visible trace, we can't be the only ones.
Once on the ridge, however, it's magnificent. The view changes completely. On the way up, you can see mainly the valley you're travelling through. On the way back, from the ridge, you get a double view of the landscape: on one side the valley you've travelled through, and on the other the immensity of the mountains stretching towards the lake.
The loop then makes perfect sense.
Back to the car and the end of the weekend
We got back to the car in the early afternoon, with the feeling that we'd ended up with the best moment of the trip.
Back home, and this time, no bar terrace. Just a real hot shower. Well, hot... but not too hot, because in the middle of August, it was still very hot outside.
We ended the day simply, at home, with a drink to round off our three days in the Champsaur.
And frankly, after three hikes, waking up at dawn, steep climbs and technical descents, it wasn't unpleasant to find a bit of comfort again.
Conclusion - The Champsaur, the roof tent... and already a desire to go elsewhere
This three-day weekend in the Champsaur confirmed one thing for us: the Alpine landscape lends itself perfectly to wild camping in a roof-tent. To be able to set up camp the day before a hike, sleep as close as possible to the trail, get up with the light of day and leave before the crowds... it's a real luxury. In the middle of August, when everyone is trying to avoid traffic jams and the heat, this freedom completely changes the experience.
The roof tent really helps you get the most out of your hikes. You can start early, make the most of the cooler temperatures and enjoy the sunrises at altitude. And above all, you avoid the mid-morning rush of cars.
The landscapes of the Champsaur are clearly beautiful. The mountain pastures are vast, the relief harmonious and the panoramas open. But let's make no mistake: as soon as the view swings towards the Embrun valley and the Lake Serre-Ponçon, everything changes. The presence of the lake adds an extra dimension. More contrast, more depth, more emotion too. For me, the combination of water and mountains is unbeatable.
Le Piolit was the perfect illustration of this: as soon as your gaze catches the blue of the lake, the landscape takes on a different intensity.
So yes, the Champsaur is a great destination for a weekend of hiking in the Hautes-Alpes. But we already know that the next three-day trip (most likely around 15 August, just to get away from the hustle and bustle once again) will probably be to the Valgaudemar.
Because in the mountains, there's always a valley to explore. ☀️