Our roadtrip in the Colorado Provençal has been an exceptional adventure, combining natural scenery, historical exploration and pure motorcycling fun (or not...). To make sure everything went off without a hitch, we carefully organised every detail on Notion. This roadtrip took us to discover the incredible ochres of Rustreland Bruoux Minesand the charming village of Gordes. Here's a full article on our experience, from the meticulous organisation to our programme and budget for the 3 days.
Organising our roadtrip to Notion
Before setting off on our adventure, good organisation was essential. With plenty of stops and discoveries in store, we used Notion to plan every aspect of our trip:
- Planning the stages We organised the itinerary day by day, with a list of places to visit and distances to travel. Using Notion enabled us to group together all the essential information, such as the opening hours of the sites and accommodation addresses.
- Business list We share it with you here. The business checklist means we don't forget anything!
Installing intercoms
We have installed new intercoms on our helmets to facilitate communication between motorbikes during the journey.
Up until now, we've had Sena intercoms. Quite disappointed with them, and before investing a lot of money in more advanced models, we wanted to try out some cheap intercoms!
These intercoms have proved indispensable for :
- Coordinating stops in real time,
- Warning of dangersespecially when passing cars on narrow roads,
- Sharing impressions the landscape without having to stop,
- Follow the GPS route via voice instructions, while remaining focused on the road.
The intercoms were installed quickly, and the sound quality proved to be two-tone... We'll come back to this in another article... 😉
The stages of our roadtrip in the colourado of Provence
Day 1 - 226km - Mistral, country roads and the first ochres
We voluntarily left the house around 10am. Not because we were lazy. Not because we were dragging our feet. But because the forecast mistral was... violent. And if we're going to be shaken about all day, we might as well avoid the prickly early morning chill.
It was really blowing sick.
With our 125s, taking the motorway is out of the question. In any case, we avoid it as much as possible. So we followed the A51 along the secondary roads. On paper, it's nicer. In reality, that day it was more exposed to the wind. Sideways gusts of wind, the bike rocking, arms tense on the handlebars... We'd planned ahead: technical layers, windbreakers, warm gloves. But despite everything, we were freezing.
After a while, we had to face the facts: we couldn't take it any more.
Strategic break in Sisteron
We stopped off in Sisteron. Hot coffee, shelter against a wall to cut the wind, a few minutes to breathe and relax the shoulders. It's amazing how a simple cup of coffee can become a real moment of comfort when you've spent 1 hour fighting the gusts.
We didn't take too long, but the break clearly saved our bacon.
A detour via Les Mées and Les Pénitents
Once we'd warmed up a bit, we hit the road again, stopping off at Les Mées to see the Pénitents. There's something impressive, almost mystical about these rock formations towering over the valley. Even with the wind still buffeting us, we were glad we'd made the diversions.
This kind of stop is exactly why we choose the "départementales": to be able to stop whenever we want, to discover the countryside, to take our time.
Camping at Marc and Carole's via HomeCamper
We then headed straight for Villars, our base for the two nights.
For this roadtrip, we went through HomeCamper. The principle is simple: private individuals make available a piece of their land, with or without facilities. So you can pitch your tent legally, without camping in the wild. And clearly, in the Luberon, we couldn't see ourselves pitching a tent “at random”. We weren't on a mountain bivouac, we were on a more inhabited, more supervised territory.
We pitched our tent at the home of Marc and Carole, two adorable hosts. As we're on a motorbike and don't carry a solar shower or any special equipment, we'd taken an extra option to have access to a separate shower and toilet. Frankly, it was essential. After a windy and freezing day, we were delighted not to have to improvise.
Quick set-up, chat with Marc (also a biker), explore the terrain... and once the tent was up, we were back on the bikes.
Lighter with bags and equipment, it was immediately more pleasant.
Heading for the Colorado Provençal in Rustrel
In the afternoon, we set off to visit the Colorado Provençal in Rustrel. At the entrance, you have to pay to park - and they charge by motorbike. But we found a little trick... which we'll talk about a little further down in the “Our opinion of the Colorado Provençal in Rustrel” section.
Return to Villars and end of the day in Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt
After our visit to the Colorado Provençal in Rustrel, we made our way back to Villars to explore the village. Peaceful atmosphere, narrow streets, stone houses... Nothing spectacular, but that typical Luberon charm that we love. Above all, it was nice to walk around without the pressure of the road, after a morning that had been a bit sporty in terms of the weather.
At the end of the day, we got back on the bikes and headed for Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt.
The primary objective: a geocache.
And clearly, it was worth the diversions.
The geocache guided us to the ruins of the old castle, perched high above the village. The climb is a leisurely one, and once at the top, the view opens up over the entire surrounding valley. The light at the end of the day, the gentle hills of the Luberon, the almost total silence... It was probably the most beautiful panorama of the day, and it wasn't even on the original programme.
Just goes to show that sometimes it's the impromptu detours that make the biggest impact.
We then finished the day at the restaurant Le Savouin, in Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt. Home cooking, friendly atmosphere, really friendly service. The team was simple and warm, with no fuss.
The interior decoration isn't what we'll remember - it was rather dark, a bit classic - but honestly, at the time, we were mainly looking to relax and eat well. And on that point, there's nothing to complain about: we enjoyed ourselves.
After 226 km of wind, cold and secondary roads, this meal almost tasted like a victory.
Day 2 - 68km - Wind, ochre and an unexpected crush
We got up quite early. Well... “up” is a big word. We mostly survived the night.
The mistral had by no means said its last word. The tent was shaken all night long. It rattled, vibrated and whistled. Clearly, we didn't sleep like in a 4-star hotel.
But there was one significant advantage: zero humidity.
The wind blew everything away. Not a drop of condensation in the tent when we woke up. And that's a luxury when you're camping.
Breakfast in Roussillon, under cover
We started the day in the village of Roussillon. We headed for a café sheltered from the wind for a well-deserved breakfast. Hot coffee, pastries, relaxed shoulders... We took our time.
Then we set off to discover the Colorado Provençal in Roussillon - the famous Sentier des Ocres. I'll tell you more about it below in the dedicated section, but let's just say that the experience is different from Rustrel: more developed, more supervised, more “organised”.
After the walk, we strolled through the village.
And then... I fell in love.
Roussillon is truly magnificent. The ochre facades, the sloping streets, the contrasting colours, the light that catches the walls... For me, it was a real highlight of my stay. There's a coherence in this village, an atmosphere that works. You feel that ochre is part of its identity, not just part of the décor.
We had a leisurely lunch on the spot before getting back on the bikes.
Gordes: a spectacular approach, a more nuanced experience
Head for Gordes, billed as one of the most beautiful villages in France.
The finish is clearly impressive. The hilltop village, the stone houses seemingly piled high on the hill... The view is superb.
But once inside, we were a little more mixed. Maybe too many expectations. Maybe too much tourism. The “wow” factor was mainly on the outside.
It's still beautiful, of course. But compared to Roussillon, our hearts had already chosen.
Geocache and old wind turbine before the Mines de Bruoux
We then headed for the Mines de Bruoux. We were a little early for the guided tour, so we took the opportunity to do a geocache.
And once again, a pleasant surprise.
The route took us to an old wind turbine that has stood there for over 100 years (approximately). Lost in the middle of the landscape, a little out of time. Without the geocache, we probably would have missed it.
These little unexpected interludes really add another dimension to the roadtrip.
Then came the visit to the Mines - clearly our favourite activity of the weekend (see our review below). Unfortunately, we didn't take many photos, as it's forbidden to take any inside the mines.
Return via Apt and aperitif at the campsite
After the tour, we went through Apt to buy something to eat for the evening. We didn't really want to go out again, especially with the idea of getting back on the motorbike at night after dinner.
So we opted for an aperitif and dinner at the campsite. Simple, effective, perfect.
And then... a memorable scene.
We take out the bottle of red wine.
We look at each other.
Keep quiet.
We forgot the corkscrew.
Marc and Carole saw our predicament (we tried to uncork the cork with the house keys...😂) and took pity on us. Not only did they lend us a corkscrew, but they also brought us two stemmed glasses.
We finished the evening with a small Yams, quietly under the tent, with the wind finally calming down.
A gentler day than the first, more balanced and rich in contrasts between villages, ochre and industrial heritage.
Day 3 - Sunday 🌞😴 - 210km
Woke up early and cold. No more wind, but on the other hand the night was very wet. Fortunately, Marc and Carole kindly offered us a hot coffee and croissants 😍😍 We talked for a long time before taking off at 1pm.
We stopped off at the Gorges d'Oppedette before eating in Banon at the restaurant "La Suite", which was one of the only restaurants still serving hot food at 3pm!
We then headed home via the Méouge gorges (which will be the subject of a future roadtrip to the Provençal Baronnies).
Our opinion on ....
Colorado provençal de Rustrel (sharing good tips!)
We'd spotted some prices on the internet that weren't up to date. They were asking €6 per bike... x 2 bikes = €12. Well done, you're good at maths 😝
In fact, we left one motorbike parked further away and climbed up 2 on the zontes to pay only for 1 motorbike. Once we'd parked, we realised that it was the parking that was subject to a charge. Unlike Roussillon, it seems quite possible to visit Colorado (on foot) free of charge by taking the lane where only bikes are allowed (to the right of the entrance/gate).
Then, as for Colorado itself, it was lovely! I'd been there when I was (much) younger with my parents, so I had something grand in mind... in the meantime, I've grown (in height), so inevitably, everything didn't seem quite as big as it did back then 😅 Still, it's incredible to see the diversity of landscapes that our country has to offer!
We downloaded the mobile app, which acts as a tour guide, but we only used it at the start of the walk, which lasted almost 1 hour.
The Provençal Colorado of Roussillon
No free parking in the immediate vicinity of the Colorado. We parked 1km away (stadium car park free of charge) and then we walked towards the centre.
Admission to the Ochre Trail is €3.5/person. It's much better developed than the Rustrel trail. But we were rather disappointed by the duration: there are 2 trails, the long one of which is supposed to last 50 minutes. Even though we walked slowly, we finished it in 30 minutes... So we thought it was a bit expensive...
Gordes
Rated as one of the most beautiful villages in France, we couldn't pass up a visit to this village. Once again, we were rather disappointed: the approach to the village is certainly magnificent, but once in the village... it was pretty unremarkable.
The exterior stone facades were mostly hidden (not to say spoilt) by large prints of photographs...of cats! For us, this completely distorted the vibe by the architecture of the village.
Once again, there's no free parking for cars, but if you're on a motorbike, we were able to drive up to the centre and park without any problems!
Bruoux Mines
So for me it was THE favourite activity. We paid €19 for 2 for the 1-hour guided tour (during which we couldn't take photos or videos).
I hadn't remembered the mines for the simple reason that they have only been open to the public since the late 2000s. So we were able to discover these vaults and tunnels with the pickaxe marks of the old miners still visible. Once again, it's incredible to see what our PACA region has to offer and to learn more about the ochre trade and the important role played by the Lubéron in this trade at the time!
Clearly, it's a budget, but you have to do it at least once if you go there (it's honestly worth it more than any other activity we've done 😂).
Budget: how much did it cost, all inclusive?
Hosting
We didn't try wild camping, but the campsites in the Lubéron were far too expensive for a single pitch! So we went through HomeCamper, where private individuals make part of their garden available.
We set up camp with Marc (also a motorcyclist) and Carole in Villars for 2 nights:
| Price per night | + Platform Commission | + Shower and WC option |
|---|---|---|
| 20€ | 6€ | 8€ |
They offered us an additional option to have a shower and toilet separate from their house. Clearly, this was essential...
Food
As expected, the food which takes up most of the budget. At the start, we had planned to have picnics at lunchtime and a restaurant in the evening.
That's what we did on the 1st day: we'd prepared wraps for lunch, and in the evening, as we had nothing in stock, we desperately looked for a restaurant - they were all full. In the end, we found a nice restaurant in Saint-Saturnin-les-Apt where we had a great burger and really good home fries!
We then reversed the route because it was freezing cold and getting home at night wasn't very pleasant! The result was that on Saturday evening we had a nice little picnic at Marc and his wife's place, who helped us out with a corkscrew and 2 balloon glasses for the bottle of red we'd taken!
In a nutshell...
This motorbike roadtrip in the Colorado Provençal was a memorable experience (and the mistral had a lot to do with it 😂). Between the organisation, the beauty of the ochre landscapes, the fascinating history of the Bruoux Minesand the timeless charm of Gordes RoussillonEvery day was a new adventure. The careful preparation of our belongings and the addition of intercoms made the journey that much smoother and more enjoyable.
We left the region with a wealth of memories and just one desire: to set off on another adventure to discover more of Provence's treasures.
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